When I made my first coat (spring/fall), I must say that I was not satisfied with the result: the edges seemed a little " puffy " and not well-defined. The fabric was too soft and not stiff enough. In short, my techniques were not at the level I wanted and that frustrated me enormously. To change the situation, I decided to ask for help from a professional tailor at Fabrique Ethique in Montreal who helped me correct my techniques in no time! Today, it's my turn to help you with my tips to add «pep » to your sewing techniques.
Don't hesitate to use interfacing almost everywhere!
When I started sewing coats, I only covered the parts indicated in the pattern: the upper front, back, and the shoulders. Big mistake! A professional explained to me that you need to interface all the front and back pieces, and for the sleeves, the parts at the shoulders and wrists. (See photo)
Instructions:
1) Apply interfacing to the back of the fabric;
2) Give the iron a blow for 10 seconds so that it is well applied.
Stitch your seams open
Another tip for creating beautiful finishes, make overcast stitches. This helps secure the open seams so they don't fray and makes your coat less "puffy". Some prefer to use the iron for its speed, but I find that the overcast stitch gives a more professional look. This technique is worked from left to right. (video tuto)
Instructions:
1) Start by inserting the needle under the seam open to hide the knot;
2) Take the needle out to the left and pull;
3) Backstitch from left to right and pull again.
Make stitch, stitch, stitch!
Every time, the edge of my coat looked loose and "puffy". To make beautiful edges on your coat and prevent it from being too " puffy ", make coast stitches so that the edge stays in place (this will make it easier to install the lining). This technique is worked from right to left and can also be used to stitch your lining.
Instructions:
1) Start by inserting the needle under the folded fabric to hide the knot;
2) bring out the needle on the visible part of the work. Insert the needle obliquely to the left from top to bottom;
3) Take a few threads of your fabric (the one under the folder seam) with the needle, bring out the needle at an angle to the left;
4) Continue until the end.
Share your story!
I hope these tips help you create breathtaking pieces. Don't forget to share the coat on which you tested your new skills with the keyword #Paulinessence_sewingtips.
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